Review A Carbo San Lucas Vacation

Today, Cabo San Lucas is in the throes of development, with a gaggle of developers and hustlers offering time shares and condos. Seasonal visitors see the population soar to more than 50,000, though the permanent population is around half this. Recent luxury developments have been controversial, particularly the gated community on the hill, Pedregal, which caters to the uber-rich.

The Downtown is the throbbing heart of the party town that draws college kids and high-rollers alike. Just check out a few of the bars in this area and you will souvenir yourself an unforgettable hangover. With a standout name, El Squid Roe throws on live music for throwing down tequila. If you are serious about sampling the spirit distilled from the blue agave plant, make a beeline for Pancho's - it boasts around 400 varieties of the stuff. If music is more your poison, there is the perennial Hard Rock Cafe, or try Cabo Wabo Cantina, which sees occasional performances by its owner Sammy Hagar, the less-famous front man of 1980s guitar gods Van Halen. Cabo's lone gay and lesbian venue, Rainbow Bar, is on the waterfront with a small dance floor.

Sports and partying are Cabo's main attractions, but there are also a few cultural and historical points of interest. The Spanish missionary Nicolas Tamaral established the stone Iglesia de San Lucas (Church of San Lucas) on Calle Cabo San Lucas, close to the main plaza, in 1730. A large bell in a stone archway commemorates the completion of the church in 1746. The Pericue Indians, who resisted Tamaral's demands that they practice monogamy, eventually killed him. Buildings on the streets facing the main plaza are gradually being renovated to house restaurants and shops, and the picturesque neighbourhood has the most Mexican ambience in town.

For fisher folk this is the gateway to the celebrated 'Marlin Alley', but historically this old port was only really a passing-through destination for sailors because of the lack of fresh water. To get a bleary-eyed glimpse of the fishing boats heading out, get up at the very un-holiday hour of four. Do not expect boatloads of marlin because these fish are protected, only one can be caught a day by each boat and any extras must be released. On their way back in most boats fly flags that boast to everyone on the docks about the size of their catch. To throw a line in at the 'Marlin Capital of the World' you can join a tour or take your own boat. All you need to fish by yourself is a license from the Oficina de Pesca, where you might also be able to catch some tips on how the fish are biting. If you are not into big-game fishing, there are cruises that can drop you at Playa del Amor or Land's End.

Everything's fresh and homemade, including the corn tortillas and the numerous and varied salsas. Fish tacos made with fresh dorado are superb, as are any of the shrimp dishes, the coconut mango version, served with homemade mango chutney, is especially tasty.

Do not leave without sampling the original Mexican bouillabaisse, a rich stew of shrimp, crab, sea bass, scallops, Italian sausage, and savoury seasonings. Mexican specialties include carne asada (grilled beef) with chile verde sauce, and chimichangas.

You might want to try the beaches while your here.  Flanked by towering rocks, quiet Playa del Amor (Lover's Beach) is Cabo's most scenic beach. Swimming near the arches should be avoided, but snorkeling on the bay side is excellent. Exhausting all superlatives, this mind-blowing beach is flanked by towering rocks and has access to both the Pacific Ocean and the Bahia de Cabos San Lucas. Above the water, the natural rock outcrops and arches at Land's End are one of Baja California's trademark landscapes.

Under the waves there is some great snorkeling to be had. Scuba divers can choose between exploring an old shipwreck, coasting over rocky reefs or just hanging out with the playful sea lions that have been known to visit. If you are curious about the underwater world but want to stay dry, there are glass-bottomed boats that leisurely cruise the area.

On the Pacific side of the landmass, Playa Solmar has a reputation for unpredictable, dangerous waves that can get unsuspecting tourists into trouble. As a result this stretch of coast has been nicknamed 'Divorce Beach' by some locals.

The most popular of the town's beaches is definitely Medano, its calm waters are perfect for swimming, though you might have to dodge the odd jet ski. The souvenir vendors have worked out that this is the best beach to hawk Day of the Dead dolls, but there are plenty of bars and restaurants in which to give them the slip. This area is definitely the party place in town, so if you are after peace and tranquility make for the quieter stretch of sand beyond the Club Cascadas.

If you are looking for adventure sports action this should be your first stop. Visitors can carve up the coast on a windsurfer, jump into a sea kayak, strap yourself into a parasail for an adrenalin-racing eyeful of the coastline or try the heart-stopping, but picturesque, beachside bungee jumping. And of course there is always terrorizing swimmers with a jet ski. All the water sports toys are available for hire at various places along the beach.

Although superb sport fishing put Cabo San Lucas on the map, there is more to do than dropping your line and waiting for the Big One. For most cruises and excursions, try to make fishing reservations at least a day in advance. Keep in mind that some trips require a minimum number of people. Most sports and outings can be arranged through a travel agency; fishing can also be arranged directly at one of the fishing-fleet offices at the far south end of the marina.

Besides fishing, there's kayaking ($60 for a sunset trip around the Arch rock formation; $40 for morning trips) and boat trips to Los Arcos or uninhabited beaches. All-inclusive daytime or sunset cruises are available on a variety of boats, including a restored pirate ship. Many of these trips include snorkeling; serious divers have great underwater venues to explore.

All along the curving sweep of sand known as Medano Beach, on the east side of the bay, you can rent snorkeling gear, boats, Wave Runners, kayaks, and windsurf boards. You can also take windsurfing lessons. This is the town's main beach and is a great place for safe swimming, as well as people-watching from one of the many outdoor restaurants along its shore.

Beach aficionados may want to rent a car and explore the five more remote beaches and coves between the two Cabos: Playa Palmilla, Chileno, Santa Marķa, Barco Varado, and Vista del Arco. Beaches other than Medano are not considered safe for swimming, though many people do not heed the warning. Experienced snorkelers may wish to check them out, but other visitors should go for the view only.

Always check at a hotel or travel agency for directions and swimming conditions. Although a few travel agencies run snorkeling tours to some of these beaches, there is no public transportation. Your only option for beach exploring is to rent a car. Several companies offer snorkeling.

Carbo San Lucas, as you can see has something for everyone and everyone will have a good time if you visit, we did.